Hyperpigmentation is a top concern among Malaysian skincare consumers. According to local skincare startup encoriumⓇ, tocotrienols, vitamin E derived from red palm from our own backyard is more potent than conventional vitamin E, tocopherols in enhancing a commonly used ingredient to treat hyperpigmentation – L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).
encoriumⓇ launched its first product CE3 Brightening Buffet on Saturday. The elegantly formulated serum made with multi-active ingredients contains 18 percent L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), tocotrienols, tocopherols and ferulic acid.
The brand’s founder Cynthia Lee said that product testers have experienced brighter complexion and lightening of hyperpigmentations with this formulation faster than with ordinary vitamin C serum.
“We tested this combination with over 500 skincare users in Malaysia last year and over 80 percent noticed results as early as 14 days,” she said.
On launching the brand with a brightening serum first, Lee said a survey with the group of testers indicated that 63.6 percent of skincare users are looking for solutions for hyperpigmentations. Other pre-existing skin concerns highlighted by the respondents aged between 21 and over 55 years are fine lines and wrinkles (53.6 percent) and dehydrated skin (50.8 percent).
encoriumⓇ , according to Lee, seeks to help Malaysian skin care users tackle their top three skin concerns with their products starting with the CE3 Brightening Buffet.
Lee said, “L-ascorbic acid is a popular ingredient in treating hyperpigmentation given that it is the most well-researched ingredient. However, it is also one of the hardest ingredients to formulate products with due to its sensitivity to air, water, heat and light, which causes it to oxidise and lose its potency over a short time.
“In solving the issue and to boost the efficiency of L-ascorbic acid, we used Tocotrienols,” she said, adding that experimental research shows that Tocotrienols are 60 times more efficient as antioxidants compared to conventional vitamin E, Tocopherols.
With this formulation, Lee said that the brand had managed to slow down the oxidation process by at least two folds.
encoriumⓇ went a step further by separating the L-ascorbic acid powder from the main liquid formulation to prolong the product’s shelf life. That way, product users will only need to mix the serum upon opening to enjoy the formulation fresh.
“We didn’t just solve the product stability issue, this is really the freshest it can be for consumers. It’s like enjoying a freshly made serum that just came out of the manufacturing line, but at home!
In order to overcome other concerns such as dehydration and fine lines, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and red algae are also added to the encoriumⓇ CE3 Brightening Buffet in efficacious amounts.
According to medical officer of family medicine Dr Amanda binti Elli, L-ascorbic Acid is the most effective form of vitamin C in topical skin care thus far.
She said that our bodies are exposed to free-radicals from environmental pollutants and the sun every day and many signs are shown on the skin because the skin is human’s largest organ and first line of defense.
Vitamin C is an essential antioxidant that the body needs in order to fight these free radicals. However, our bodies do not produce vitamin C naturally.
“We get them from food. When ingested, our bodies process the nutrients and deploy them everywhere – from blood cells to the brain to skin. The amount of vitamin C our skin receives is also dependent on the quality of vitamin C we ingest and the state of our health. So, our bodies may not send sufficient vitamin C to the skin to tackle aesthetic conditions such as dull complexion and dark spots. In such instances, applying them topically makes sense,” she said, adding that L-ascorbic acid content in a product needs to be between eight and 20 percent to show positive results.
Commending encoriumⓇ’s move to mix tocotrienols with L-ascorbic Acid, Dr Amanda said, “this is a clever innovation. Tocotrienols have smaller molecular tails compared to conventional vitamin E. Its smaller size makes it more efficient in carrying out its role as an antioxidant.
“When it comes to fighting free radicals, L-ascorbic Acid is like a big tough soldier with little stamina. It is strong but its energy wears off easily. Other antioxidants such as Vitamin E and Ferulic acid can help L-ascorbic acid regenerate its strength,”
Dr Amanda said. Dr Amanda also said that not only is Tocotrienol an effective booster for Vitamin C in skincare, on its own, it also is a very potent antioxidant in promoting skin healing, moisturising, restoration and regeneration.